This is the 45 kg waste oil heaters we sell here on Drip fed waste oil heating. It has been running for over 12 hours today on waste filtered engine oil, I've done nothing to it in those 12 hours, haven't even checked it, and as the rugby's on, it'll continue going for another 2 hours before I turn it off via my mobile phone. Some people run them all night on hydraulic oil. Ok so it ran for 15 hours total yesterday without going out to look at, turned it off with my phone as i went to bed. So if a heat pump cost $1.50 an hour to run thats $22.50 saved for a days heating.
over a week that's $157.50 in power savings. Amazing.
We have found them to be foolproof, and easy for customers to operate.
We are all about safe, clean burning, of waste engine oil, Canola or Vege oil.
These are all controlled with the help of our waste oil controller units making them sable source of heat and very safe. If your connecting these to a closed loop you'll need an open vent and an a town water fed ajax valve. We have these heaters instock ready to be sent to you, we haven't fitted a coil in them as this will differ between customers. Send us an email firstname.lastname@example.org if you want a complete unit from $1490 with a 15 metre coil to $1790.00 with a 30 metre copper coil. Maximum coils are 3 x 15 metres sets @$299.00 per 15 metres coils.
We concentrate all our efforts on clean burning.
We have found you can never burn enough waste oil, there is so much of it about.
Last winter we had 18 drums available to try and get through. That's 3150 hours of burning or 450 weeks 8 hours per day.
We were offered 2000 litres new Hydraulic oil yesterday = 11 weeks solid burning 24/7 or 22 weeks 8 hours a day.
All free and delivered.
Just not possible to get through it.
It was all recycled.
Possibly taken away for the Huntley Power Station and burnt there, and be sold back to you for electric heating.
We made something a little different, a flame thrower. Findings third attempt. Still figuring out the smaller details to get it going correctly. The oil has to gasify before being lit, it did light but the upmarket fan still didn't have enough force to blow the flame out the end of the flame thrower. A Bouncy Castle fan has been fitted to it. Thinking of changing the oil to hydraulic oil and a little diesel mixed, just to help with getting it going.
The burner can be removed, cleaned if need be, and legs removed for shipping.
If it works aswell as we are hoping, then this could change the way we heat large amounts of water. Our thinking, is lay a 45 kg gas cylinder so its horizontal, weld a 100 mm thick steel pipe through the total length and have the flame thrower pointed down that pipe, heating 88 litres water in the cylinder. Then theres no need to heat larger vessels because this will do it all. At the rate I've seen these heat water we think it would heat the 88 litres of boiling water in 36 minutes or less. It would require an ajax valve, an open vent, so as hot water exited the cylinder cold would automatically replace it. With something like this you could heat half a dozen houses, heating & all their hot water needs all pretty much for free. Or the cow shed for cleaning down or for rearing calves, drying wet firewood, endless uses.
Quite excited with this. Too busy making customers heaters to get back to it currently. Purchased a gas flame thrower to help it get going.
We have had alot of success lately replacing these expensive diesel heaters, with our free burning waste oil blower/burner units, the diesel burner requires a compressor to blow the diesel through into the burning chamber. So If you over the cost in power to run this heater, also the cost of keeping it fed with diesel give us a call.
This customer contacted us, to see if we could build a waste oil burner blower heater unit for her Marshall boiler, she had limited space, a Diesel burner like the one above was heating the boiler, however it also ran off wood, a log fell out of the boiler and burnt all the electrics on the diesel heater, hence the burn mark up the wall. It was going to cost thousands of dollars to replace the diesel blower unit, then she found this website.
So now she has our waste oil heater fitted with a controller on the wall and has no more costs for her hot water.
Doesn't need diesel anymore nor firewood. Just free waste oil, which we all know we can't burn it fast enough as the supply of oil keeps on coming.
As these burn for long hours a Ryco oil filter/water trap, has been fitted to reduce the ash buildup in the pot therefore it can burn for longer.
The waste oil comes from outside the house, stored in an old central heating storage tank and is pumped in via the controller unit.
Total cost for blower burner and controller $498.00 Plus $99.00 for the filter. Total $597.00
Price of a diesel heater anywhere from $3,000.00 plus fuel and power to run it, and a compressor and compressor noise. We have since found out that some people with these diesel burners are going through compressors best yet is 5 compressors.
It starts to look a very viable option.
Thank you Karen for the image.
Drip Fed Waste Oil Heating is
able to build all your waste oil heaters, for you now in United States & Canada too
This will save X amount in freight.
my name is Jesse.
I live in Roseau, MN 56751
Either email Jesse direct or fill out the form below and we'll get back in contact.
So get in touch with Jesse for all the USA & Canada region waste oil heaters.
Australia & New Zealand contact: email@example.com
Or just fill out the form below with what your wanting.
We'll get back in touch with you asap.
Currently making diffusers, blower burner unit with controllers.
More cylinders have been delivered so will get into these next week.
Cooper coils being put together ready to instal into water boiler cylinder.
These blower burner units are available from today with waste oil controller units.
$499.90 NZD each set. Plus freight.
Put one into your logfire, save on all that expensive firewood this year and following years to come.
We're built a new type of used oil heater, it operates like a cyclone effect inside a cylinder, and the flame rotates it looks like a yellow donut. Controlled with our waste oil controller.
With any oil fired heater, if you put too much oil in any waste oil heater they will eventually smoke, this heater is no different.
Was a bit of a mission to build as the steel was very thick.
The video of it is below. We would make the next one, from a 45 kg cylinder next time there something about the dimensions that work with them.
The current blower will be re-used for a rocket stove as that didn't operate correctly.
I'm hoping to heat the oil prior to being burnt to get that lovely blue flame. That didn't work.I found out the guy who was getting a lovely blue flame was burning waste oil, diesel and acetate which isn't free. Defeats the purpose when oil is free.
We have since had another tree fall into our place form the neighbour it's been dead for 13-15 years they never did a thing with it. I wrote a note a week ago to them regarding cleaning the mess up, six weeks on I see the note still sitting in the white plastic bag on the lawn. Neighbour from hell, never mantains anything, lawns 3 feet high. So got the chainsaw out and cut it up and it's heating the house with this heater with wood just to get rid of it., still free heating. lol
So the conclusion on this heater is it smokes has been removed and is excellent for firewood I've removed the coil so it's up for sale. $270.00nzd
Auto lighting from your smartphone.
Ok I've started it. Yah.
I lay in bed last night from 2am for about 3 hours working out in my mind just how to make this work.
So this is what I came up with.
The auto lighting would come in handy for commercial operations for heating water, like dairy farming, Campsites, etc.
I've wired up the thermostat to 12 volts and a timer so when the water temperature reaches a set temperature let's say 75c or whatever temp you need it set to, the thermostat will turn the timer off. When the temperature drops below 60c the thermostat will turn on the turns timer on to and opens up a solenoid connected to a 9kg gas bottle which will allow gas to flow for only 10 seconds then stops, and as the gas starts, the auto lighter or taser turns on at the same time igniting the gas flowing into the pot in the heater. The pump and timer would start simultaneously.
Next step is connect the solenoid up to a gas cylinder, I have purchase the gas connections for this.
The wifi gear is here for it.
The power reducing controls have arrived and I have wired that up, and now the zappers have arrived so it's just a matter of having the right frame of mind to attach it. It's on my bench.
But now I have to connect the waste oil controller unit to this auto lighter unit with a push in plug, so the timer will turn the oil/pump on and off when the thermostat turns on and off.
And been thinking maybe the fan could stay on because if the heater is 60c it still needs air to stop the heat coming back up the blower pipe melting the fan or speed controller. So the fan will be kept on very little power consumption..
It's going to take a while, as each operation needs to be figured out, and wired up accordingly.
Since fitting this Ryco oil filter to the oil line, I have notice when i went to remove the pot to clean it (normally there's alot of white ash to get rid of) there was alittle black smudge on the steel, inside the pot with nothing to remove, and that's after 7 hours of use. Normally there's about 1 1/2 cups of ash. I wonder if filtering it to 18 mircon has changed it in some way. If anyone else has found this let us know.
You can see how hot that bowl inside the firebox is, white hot, I can say the emissions will have nothing just a clear heatwave. Perfect.
This is the cheapest way to get into waste oil heating just by adapting what you have.
Sending heavy 45 kg or even 19 kg steel cylinders around the world is too expensive.
Everyone has access to these types of log fires, and alot of them will still be good, certainly fine to have outside, and most of these have wetbacks already fitted, so heating the swimming pool or the spa pool just got alot easier and cheaper.
Great to warm up the entertaining area. Excellent for heating Radiators.
So all that's required from us would be the blower burner unit, and the waste oil controller, to heat.
Ideally we would need to know the height of the fire box inside to build a blower burner accordingly.
All you have to do with the blower burner unit is cut a 2" hole in the top or the side, back of the firebox and 4 bolt holes.
The hole could be square or round either way is good, as the bolt on steel plate will cover any gap.
No more firewood and free heating and if you have a wetback your power account will also drop by half.
Add up the firewood savings alone in a year, and all that extra work involving firewood.
Sell the chainsaw and tralier and towbar.
Waste oil is similar to burning propane we have found. Turn it on, let it run day and all night turn it off.
Empty out the ashes in the pot every 20 or so hours depending on the oil your burning.
Another waste oil blower burner converted logfire.
Well done you guys.
We built the blower burner unit and waste oil controller for this unit.
The oil is in the plastic 20 litre container on the chair, waste oil controller sitting on the chair, blower unit out of sight entering the left hand side of the firebox.
The oil container can sit on the ground and the controller could be screwed to the fence for easy access.
Notice all that heat and no messy firewood, and that's a big firebox.
We also understand this is heating a spa pool at an amazing rate too. I think the rate was every second 1 litre of pool water was heated to 70c, so 60 litres a minute 3600 litres an hour the spa pool should be boiling and ready to cook the first batch of crayfish in two hours. I suppose you could turn the fire down if a slower heating rate was needed.
So to take this system to the next level as a few have already, to heat 8 radiators, showers, spa pool, etc, take any logfire with a wetback, it would need to be connected to a 280 litre new or second hand hot water cylinder, the logfire would heat the water to 90c in the cylinder, then at that temp, a thermostat would turn on, the circulating pump, pumping the heated water from the cylinder around the loop to the rads. I would think four rads in each circuit.The only thing is rad water can become dirty with a little rust so you may need a filter to remove this if heating a spa.
This is the only heater we build now, because these just work, they are clean burning and can be used from drying firewood, heat aircraft hangers, homes, radiators, spa pools, swimming pools, sheds large workshops, there's no limits to what they can be used for and the customer can get their head around operating them which is a must.
We have just buit a commercial waste oil blower burner unit to convert a wood fired steam boiler into waste oil boiler. The fan box slightly larger, and the pipe used is 75mm diameter allowing all the fans air to reach the fire.106 cubic metres of air per minute 12 volt 2.5 amps. The fans have a lifespan of 50,000 hours, however my fans been going 5 years still going strong. This unit comes complete with oil controller and thermostat.
The end of the pipe has a deflector, to direct the airflow into the burning bowl.
It will be used to cook up pig food using steam.
Painted in heatproff black, and zinc blue.
Priced at $699.00 NZD
We build then to suit you needs or your heater.
This waste oil heater has gone to Dunedin to heat a 40,000 litre swimming pool, Our thanks goes out to Lindsay,
We fitted 30 metres of copper coils inside the cylinder and built a manifold to house both coils so we ended up with two 25mm fittings to connect the pool to, we also supplied a very small 800LPH inline circulation pump with this heater.
We are currently building another heater with two separate 15 metre coils without the manifold, one coil will heat a 200 litre hotwater cylinder which the hot water will be pumped from the cylinder to multiply radiators within the home.
The other coil will heat the house hot water cylinder and when that's hot enough a valve will open to fed the spa pool.
Buy doing this will reduce his power bill by over half, and yet the heater will take on all that work.
Thanks for all your support we couldn't do all this without you guys.
This is it finished.
We built this heater and tested it with firewood which worked, but I expected more of that heat to reach the hotplate but it didn't even cook the bacon very well because the frypan base wasn't flat. So we have added the waste oil blower burner unit to it, and now it will cook anything. It now runs over 400c and boils a large pot of water in 3 minutes from cold lol. I cooked steak and onions & eggs on it last night very nice.
It will be finish buffed clean maybe a black paint job too.
Video of it going above.
Extremely clean burning. Nothing but a heatwave exiting the flue.
No smell, no smoke.
Excellent for a cabin or small batch or even a cold garage you may work in.
If you collect it we will through in 20 litres of waste oil and, or an empty 44 gallon drum or both.
firstname.lastname@example.orgThis has sold.
The wood fired heater/cooktop. Can take 3-4 pots at a time.Sold
It's been difficult to source 45 kg cylinders at times, however we now have a steady supply of good quality cylinders, so if you would like one, to build your waste oil heater, or waste oil barbecue, they are available from us. The valves have been removed and they have failed their hydro tests so they cannot be used for gas.
Selling at $199.00 each. Plus freight.
Drip Fed Waste Oil Heating, supplies waste oil heater parts, worldwide, however it's mainly to the USA, Canada, Australia, Scotland, and New Zealand, and a lot go to the South Island of NZ even the Chatham Islands, we are open to orders from the rest of the world too, we'll work out the freight cost for you.
We're offering free freight on some items in our parts section, but allow 2-3 weeks for delivery, rather than the paid freight option, which is five days to the United States.
Burning waste oil, the thick black choking smoke has been reduced to nil, and now in 2018 is a extremely efficient clean burning free fuel straight from the drum, as in the video above shows, and capable in heating almost any area you put the heater into.
Cleaner burning than today's wood fires.
Twice the heat output of a wood, diesel or coal.
And the best bit IT'S FREE.
YES FREE HEATING. UNHEARD OF.
With the help of our electronic waste oil heater controllers with the thermostat, have made waste oil heating very safe.
There's no more fluxuations in the temperature anymore.
The dual timer controls the upper temperature so the heater now sits at 500c or what you decide set it at.
And the thermostat looks after the lower levels should anything ever happen, it will turn the oil & heater off.
So now we light the heater never needing to check on it's progress, and turn it off via the mobile app at night or let it heat all night too.
So my suggestion is don't buy a waste oil heater without a digital controller.
Or if you have a waste oil heater, get yourself a controller for your own safety because without one we all know, waste oil heaters operating only on gravity are very dangerous.
To give you an example, to heat our 3 bedroom two storied home throughout the year, will burn 3-4 drums of oil per year, which equals
around 820 litres, this saves over $800.00 in 45 kg LPG bottles or propane per winter.
This is achieved with the waste oil heater setup outside the home, heating water in a small 7 metre copper coil, which thermosyphons to a 2.5 metre x 500 mm double skinned radiator situated inside lounge, this radiates a constant heat output of 75-80 degrees c.
As the water cools in the radiator, it falls back down to the heater to be reheated, and sent back up to the radiator which completes the loop.
There is no pressure build up in the closed loop.
Correction on the no pressure build up, I lit the heater today to show a customer how it works, and noticed two small water leaks from crox fittings in the hot water loop. Didn't think too much about it at the time, and 10 minutes later bang, one of the crox joins pulled apart leaking hot water out of the loop onto the concrete floor.
So what happened
The air had sucked in through the leaks which built up pressure in the loop.
So after a lot of emails back and forth, and lots of plumbing help form a recent fire/building inspector/customer from the council. Thankyou C
We purchased an Ajax Valve and a relief valve, with a 3.7 metre head after plumbers advice too.
The Ajax valve connects to the mains water supply keeping the loop full of water.
The Ajax valve controls pressure in the loop, and the head of water on the relief valve.
So should water pressure increase in the loop, it will exit out, and the mains water supply will automatically top up with the small amounts of water which exits the loop, keeping the loop always full.
We have since been told that these pressure relief valves can and do fail, so we have removed it, and gone with the open 4 metre tall open vent.
The whole radiator is hot, which heats the house beautifully, to the point where it needs turning down in the evenings.
The timer oil pump, is operating at between 14 and 6 second delay, and pumping oil for 1 second.
One twenty litre container now lasts all day or 2-3 nights heating.
This heater burns clean.
The thermostat has been fitted, should the fire or in our case the water temperature ever drop below 40 degrees C the thermostat will kick in and turn the oil pump off, stopping oil spills.
You should always have your heater sitting in a cut down drum capable in holding the same amount of oil as your storage tank ideally 20 litres.
These heaters can either radiate heat, or they can heat water too.
Once you start heating water you start dealing with pressures which get very hot and extremely dangerous, so you will require a
Licensed Qualified Plumber to make your system safe.
We do not want anyone making potential pipe bombs with stupid plumbing errors, which can go wrong very quickly, and end up scolding yourselfs.
So please take our advice.
USE A PLUMBER
They are very expensive, and they charge like wounded bulls, but it's still better than scolding family members.
Most Council’s require that ALL PLUMBING work MUST be carried out by a qualified licensed tradesman. I would either suggest that the purchaser find out, or we'll find out for you, their local Council’s requirements. Some Councils allow homeowners to carry out limited plumbing work of a minor nature, this is a Government authorized statute in law. From memory there are only 4 or 5 local authorities that have this statute.
The Ajax Valve, necessary for reducing the town water pressure down to your loop pressure you need.
Heaters on their way to warm up customers life's.
Thanks for your support.
Wifi gadgets, when it comes to waste oil heating we think is important to know just what's going on with the heater at all times.
We now have two wifi plugs connected to the waste oil controller & fan, one which I use to turn off the oil flow, then 15 minutes later I turn the fan off. Being wifi you can turn them off from anywhere.
I just recieved a Sonoff TH16 today, which run through the wifi and displays a current temperature of the radiator in our lounge which is currently 75c. So now I can check the temperature anywhere, if the temp is too low or high, an alarm rings on the mobile and i can bypass the timer or the thermostat and turn the heater off even if i'm shopping in town. There's also a wifi camera. A common old smoke detector outside near the fire, so I do think we have all the bases covered now. The Sonoff th16 is $40.30nzd should you need one. Can be use to turn appliances on and off at certain times and run the for a length of time, a very clever little white box.
Showing the copper coil just in the flame zone.
Timer pump delivery system.
Not shown is the tubing and fitting to connect up the oil.
This blower burner unit has been built to fit into and existing logfire. A hole is drilled in the side of the firebox and is fitted blower is fitted through the 55mm hole, the plates are then clamped up with the use of bolts onto the internal fire bricks, and the outer casing of the logfire. This unit is off to Australia.
THE DUAL TIMER/PUMP SYSTEM.
These totally change waste oil heating to a safe, consistent, temperature.
For better control of the oil delivery to your waste oil heater.
The problems we have with oil, is as it warms and cools, flow rates can increase, and decrease, even through a precision needle valve, there are differences in pressures in the oil line, even when the storage tank is full, or near empty, this is why this type of heating can be so frustrating at times.
So by using this pump/timer system it eliminates these variations in the oil flow rate, and keeps the heater at a steady temperature without the fluctuations we found in the gravity system.
The timer can be adjusted to your heating requirements by increasing or decreasing the delay time.
We now sell this complete Dual Timer Pump Systems fully wired, plumbed up ready to connect to your heater.
The Dual Timer kit comes complete with a brass reducing bush from 3/4" to 3/8ths" with hose tail which fits your storage tank which also connects to the tubing, 3 metres clear plastic tubing, S/S hose clips,
12 volt 230/240 volt AC power adaptor, oil pump, and a dual timer, with full printed instructions on all 4 modes P1 P2 P3 P4.
All fitted inside a plastic box or safe keeping.
The Mode settings.
Mode P1 Start time.
Mode P2 Stop time, if you want the heater to only run for 4 hours, then it will stop the oil flow after that time.
Mode P3 Is the dual timer, which operates the pump for a set amount of time, and a delay time. We set ours to 1 second then stops for 9 seconds, and continues until you stop it. The time delay we find does need to be altered to different batches of oil.
Mode P4 is a stobe light LED light option.
As the oil exits the copper tubing at extremely high temperature it changes into a gas (Gasification) and it's this gas which keeps the heater going, not a pool of oil burning in the pot. We have found there is no oil in the pot during operation, to prove this we used a pot with 5 holes in the bottom, sort of expecting to find oil exiting the heater, it continued burning for 15 hours, and not a drop of oil was captured proving gasification was occurring.
Dual timer, thermostat, & pump system
Available world wide.
$135.00usd BUY NOW
The Blower Burner Test
The burn test using the timer pump system, with a blower burner unit, after 12 hours burning at 480c.
17 litres burnt = 1.41 liters per hour.
Ash in the bowl measured just under 1 cup, and the oil we use is black and filthy. (left)
We have alot of customers wanting to get rid of their expensive diesel, gas & wood burning units, and change to a more efficient, free to run, waste oil blower, burner units.
These blower burner units heat anything from the larger upright Marshall boilers, to the domestic water heating double wall water heaters/boilers. We have found they will heat any vessel they are installed in, from the 9kg gas cylinder, to the larger 45 kg gas cylinder for the larger buildings. Basically the larger the steel vessel, the more heat it will radiate.
Although we build these to fit your heating needs, we have normally two types which work, they are the Straight Nose & Bent Nose blowers. Straight nose for existing fire boxes, marshall heaters, or where the two parts meet by opening and closing a door. The bend blowers are for cylinders where water is to be heated. These are fitted through the side of the cylinder into a pot.
New Zealand prices
The bent nose $399.00 nzd plus freight, $20.00 Nth Island $39.00 Sth Island.
Kiwi's, please contact us regarding payment, if you don't use PayPal.
The bent nose $280.96 usd plus freight cost to USA $76.00 usd BUY NOW
For custom built units please email: email@example.com
To work the price out in your currency click here
Customer feedback from a blower burner unit.
Aaaaaaah the warmth. It's been running for a few days now and is excellent, less noise, less smoke, more efficient, more consistent output. Very good Jim 10/10.
The twisted piece of pipe is great, gets the fan out if the way, and the timer/pump will be sent for when funds are allocated, we’re now discussing putting in another radiator…
Hello Hamish, Wer'e just had another look at your website and had a good laugh. Seeing our 'twisted' blower unit. Now some of the facts aren't quite correct, after 5 months constant use, often with 8 radiators and two showers going simultaneously we had to say it's fantastic 20/10.
After 40 years burning wood and sometimes coal on various water heaters in different houses this is it.
The way to go to heat a house. Anyway about the timmer. lol
yes he got one.
Best Regards Graham.
As simple as unbolt the diesel burner, and bolt on the waste oil blower unit.
45 kg gas cyinders with door and flue holes aready made.
All you need is the burner blower unit to bolt onto the side of the cylinder.
Comes with buring pot. pot stand,solid steel hinged door and flue housing.
$360.00nzd These are too heavy to export.
Excellent for drying timber or firewood in a enclosed 40 foot container.
Drip Fed Waste OIl Heating, supply waste oil heater parts, plans, complete waste oil heater units, delivered world-wide.
All our parts are pre-tested, so we know they work before you receive them, and you'll be saving you a lot of time and effort testing should you be building your own heater.
We have a full engineering workshop dedicated just to waste oil heaters. We are always looking to better our heaters by making them safer with the help of electronics. Auto lighting being next.
Delivery to your door.
Delivery time frame, depending on the item you order, 5 days, depending if the item or items are in stock..
Completed heaters sales allow up to 3 - 4 weeks.
From the 31st August 2016 Drip Fed Waste Oil Heating, stopped selling fully built, ready to light waste oil heaters, to New Zealanders.
Worksafe wanted $25-$30,000 to have these certified. And yet you can import any fire from overseas without certification, and that's ok..
We sell heater parts now, like blower units, fans, and power supplies, timers & pumps with electronics, WIFI controllers, empty gas cylinders, plastic tubing, copper tubing, electronic controllers, made to order, copper coil wetbacks, all available, to everyone,, so you can build your own heater.
The blower unit bolts on to the side of any cylinder. The flue housing requires welding which we can do for you, should you purchase a cylinder.
Make contact we will be able to put you in the right direction. Email
To operate the termostat press the left button once and alter the temperature by the + or - on the right.
It can operate both hot and cold temps but this option is H or C by holding down the left button for a couple of seconds and altering with the + & - buttons.
Hi Hamish, I put the dual timer kit, in two weekends ago and that solved all the flow problems!
No more variable flow rates as the sun heats the oil tank, and good flow into the burner bowl all the time now - I used a timer and have found that a rate of "on for one second, off for two" is best
It works so well I can turn it on in the morning and leave it all day with no adjustment at all - brilliant!
Here's the setup above.
Note the smoke levels.
We have WiFi controllers which come with a free download mobile app, to turn the heater off, or set the heater to a timer, which works from any WIFI or mobile connection.
Excellent if you leave work and forget to turn it off.
We still think the lighting should be done manually to make sure they its going.
We use two WIFI controllers one for the fan and the other for the oil supply, but you can get away with using one controller for both.
The WIFI is an optional extra which I find really handy Priced at $48.06 usd or $52.00 nzd plus freight. BUY NOW
The next idea is a Wifi camera pointed at the heater, connected to your phone would be handy. So you don't need to go outside to check it at all. With the dual timer fitted there really is no need to check it anymore as we did with the graviy feed types.
Camera is ready to be fitted in place.
This heater above left, finished in black.
The same heater with copper coil wetback fitted inside.
Please email us regarding your order. EMAIL
All our waste oil heaters can operate up to approximately 800 C cleanly, however we recomend 400-600 degrees celsius, with these temperatures we recommend to install fire safe surrounds, whether that be brickwork, suitable tin sheeting, or hardie board with a 20mm gap between the wall so air can flow behind the sheet, and 20 mm off the ground and the heater setup 500 mm away from any fire proof surface you have constructed.
The blower burner after 2 minutes being lit.
Little bit of smoke which can happen when there is too much oil entring the pot or your the air force isn't correct. Sometimes it can be the rag used to light the oil smokes. To clear any smoke, turn the oil off until it clears, turn the oil back on, but reduced rate or increase fan speed.
You can see just by the flame colour if the heater is going to smoke, if you will see an orange/black darkish flame, it will smoke, so change the flame to a yellow white agitated flame with pointed tips you need to either increase the fan speed or the fans cubic feet per metre. The hair dryer, is great for testing, as it has three speeds. Not good as a fan full time, as they aren't rated for long term use, and can be very loud.
80mm x 80mm 12V 0.57A with wires to connect to. Positive Red, Negative Black. These are the only fans we could get the correct airflow, which makes waste oil heating, clean burning. So, if your building a heater these work.
We can also supply the speed controller and 12V 240 Volt power adapter at an additional cost. Just ask.
The only retricting factor of waste oil heating, when it comes to long hours of heating is the buildup of carbon in the pot. Hard to see from this image, but after 12 hours there is approx a cup and a half full of carbon. The way to get around this if burning throughtout the night, is to change to a clean pot before the night burn starts. This will alter with different types of oil. Hydraulic oil seems to leave no carbon behind which would be perfect for long burning. So a business who services hydralic rams would be the ones to get your oil from. I have found a lot of water in this oil but tilting the oil container back from the oil outlet pipe will solve this problem.
I had too many holes in the stainless steel pot which was purchased from Mitre 10, so i changed it to a flat bottom pot i had lying around the shed, no mater what i did when i lit it the fire smoked infact at one stage it went out. I dug out the old holy pot stuck that back in the heater lite it no smoke, why! Well all to do with the shape i surpose. So we use a kitchen mixing bowl either from a supermarket or M10 they work well but the stainless steel is very thin and will last 6 months, however at $9.90 it's still a cheap pot.
THE FAN KIT
The Fan Kit Above.
If you are building your own heater, but can't find, the right fan to make your heater smokeless, or have the ability to connect up the electronic speed controller, we sell theses fan systems complete. The fan housing above (box steel) which comes with the fan, and the fan speed controller circuit board, with a 220-240ac volt 12 volt output power adaptor, supplied as a kit, we even can supply the correct plug for your country. All you do is weld this steel box to your 50mm blower pipe removing the fan first as its plastic.
The box is pre drilled, for rivets or screws to hold the fan inside the box.
The box kit comes with a heat shield stopping any heat getting to the controller knob.
Pre painted heatproof black.
Electronic Speed controller pre wired fitted inside the box.
For Sale $71.75USD. BUY NOW freight to USA $43.15 USD
Copper coil 15 metres x 12.7mm tubing
280mm Diameter x 350mm high. These can be made to 4 different diameter of coils.
BUY NOW $285.05USD
Cylinder cleaned up ready to have the copper coil fitted
The Do's and Don'ts when it comes to waste oil heating.
Filter all your oil you intend to burn, this is important, never try burning it unfiltered the problems of blocking taps, and lines are honesty not worth the hassle and messy. If they block, you can use compressed air carefully, blow the oil back up the tube to the storage tank so any oil is contained.
Do use a gas torch to light the oil, it will makes lighting the oil a lot faster.
Do limit the oil flow to a maximum of 2 and a half turns on the needle valve or a thin steam just after a drip.
Do turn the fan on when you light the heater soon after you have a good flame going 5 seconds or so.
Do shut the door.
Do put 2 lengths of flue minimum onto your heater.
Do use a temperature gauge, then you can see exactly what your heater is doing at all times.
If running a radiator/s keep a temp gauge on the radiator, so should the radiator drops in temperature to say 40C from 85C you will need to go and check the heater, as it may have run out of oil, or the ash has built up inside the pot, turn the heater off, and change pots to a clean one, and relight.
Clean the flue if soot falkes are exiting the flue when you start lighting your heater. Clean the flue after 200 litres of oil burnt.
If you don't clean the flue, soot will block the airflow snuffing out the flame, and if your overflow oil capture is non existent, then you'll be in alot of trouble.
Don't ever light these heaters with petrol Never light the heater with petrol if it is still hot, you'll get about a metre away from the heater before the fumes ignite with a boom. The flue will end up in your neighbours, your dog will turn from white to black in .5 of a second.
Don't over supply any heater with too much oil, or the well known Chernobyl effect will take place. This it when the heater starts to roar, smokes, and turn the heater red including the flue. Should this ever happen turn the oil off, block air inlet holes and sit it out.
Remember 1 litre can burn for an hour. Image below not vey clear sorry. The fan forced heater don't seem to do this however care is needed so it never happens.
Don't leave it unattended, no different to an open fire. Unless you have a oil feed controller.
Keep very close eye on these heaters when they are new, they will train you, rather than you training it.
We have had eight years operating these heaters, we know how they should sound when operating correctly, and you will also become tuned in to them when operating.
This will take you a couple of weeks to learn its ways..
Do it right, and you'll get to enjoy all the free heat. Its simple, never oversupply oil to these heaters, and they will heat your world for free. Use a oil controller dual timer, pump system, to be safe. Wifi controls will also make your life easier.
All available right here. Thanks for taking your time to check use out.
This heater has been fed too much oil, showing the chernobyl effect.
These heaters in these videos have since been painted black
The flat packed Fan forced waste oil heater with all parts wrapped in bubble wrap and snugly fitted inside the cylinder.
includes, flue housing, blower tube and oil line, fan system, 1" ladder wetback with fittings, 2 metre oil line needle valve, and fitting to connect to your twenty litre container, or drum, door handle, legs, nuts and bolts, and pot rivets.
Right image, the fully wrapped heater ready to send to the States or you.
Freight cost $150.00 USD tracked to the States.
We have managed to get the freight cost down a little bit more.
Tommy lives in USA and came to us wanting to build a fan forced waste oil heater for his shed, so he purchased our plans, from which he has now finished this heater shown in the video above, and it's a big beast. Love the additional spark plug option not included in the plans, the second stage burn he fitted, to it just to keep his mates guessing, what on earth he was building.
He purchased the fan box kit only from us, now look at it.
Thanks Tommy for sharing with the viewers, excellent work.