This is from Russ Marshall.
I ran ours at 500c we would have to go outside and roll in the snow. But you
have to realize a converted wood burner is way more efficient. Last year we had
just a gas burner stove and it didn't put of the heat as this new woodburner I
guess since it has the reburn technology. When I go to clean it I have to wait
about an hour and a half but the stove still is putting out over 200f after I
shut it down compared to our old stove which would be cool to the touch in less
then a half hour. I have experimented with a lot of different set ups this one
being most efficient.
Latest email from Buster who lives in North Carolina.
This is his heater above.
Sorry I haven't been intouch for A while. I think I'm getting more able to get my heater lit now. Some days I have to open my 10' x 12' shop door up about 5 feet to cool it down as it gets so hot in the shop. Everybody that stops by loves the setup. I really am happy I found your website.
Email from our North Carolina customer Buster who has fitted our blower unit & controller in his wood fire or logfire.
just thought you'd like to know I used some stainless wire to centre the copper tube inside the pipe today and moved the pot about and inch. I also put put a damper in the flue pipe. The stove got the hottest than I have had it. It's really good. I am runing it off a 12 volt battery until I get the power supply from you. I am so happy I ran across your website.
Thanks so much
Notice no more firewood needed Buster, that's a huge saving by itself. Thank you, love it.
Wayne Denis from Canada has built this heater from the plans and is in testing mode. Certainly bloody cold enough for it.
The blower shown has been replaced by another and smaller 12volt unit that I tried today and I was very impressed and was able to buy it locally at a very popular tool house which also sells surplus items at a very reduced price. The price was so good that I picked up four of these units for back-ups.
When I lit the fire for the first time I ignited turpentine soaked paper towels to heat up my ss bowl and shortly afterward let the oil run but because its so slow due to the cold the fire died after the oil burned off. I tried again today using the new blower I mentioned and had similar results even though the oil ran better. What I'm finding is there is a "sweet" spot in the relationship between the oil flow, bowl temp and the volume of air fed onto the flame and I realize this is a matter of understanding the heater's personality as you have mentioned.
The latest feedback from Chris Rea 05/12/2018.
No more firewood for Chris.
He fitted our waste oil blower burner and waste oil controller units to an existing wood fire box and heating a pool at impressive rate. Chris is in NZ South Island contact him if you are interested in finding out more about it how it could work for you and how easy to convert your existing firebox.
Cell 027 208 5100 New Zealand.
This comment is from a customer 23/6/2018 in Waiouru
Well done on this simple design , about 12 years ago i had built 3 or four using similar design but rolling bodies from 253ma steel as its a bit more heat resistant. Slightly different way of firing the system up, but still drip feed. Used standard diesel burner controller , this was to fit within Erma's and HSNO policy here in NZ for combustion equipment. This was then coupled up to a standard chemical dose pump with 4 to 20mA feedback from a thermocouple in the burn chamber. This modulated heat output rather well because of different grades of waste oil Because the units I built were going in glass houses we required control both to keep the client happy and the clients insurers. Some form of flame monitoring would be good, here in NZ it is a requirement if used within or near building could be adapted easily to loop into your time. I mention this because back in the 2005 period there was a trend with the glasshouse growers to use Kroll and there had been a few fires caused by over fuelling, looks like you're on the right path, well done. I never continued as we started battling the boffins and all the rules and reg's . Even did exhaust gas analysis which turned out really good, however because of the ash in the gas it was recommended if you have rainwater for drinking not to use one within 100m of the collection area as some waste oils ash is very toxic , contains high levels of chrome, copper, zinc, and a few other surprises when we had it tested . Your burning the worn bits of someone's engine . Well done, Jayson.
However nowdays the worn bits of the engine, are left in the filter, we use before burning.
Also we don't get ash exiting the flue so I would think any nasties are cremated in the pot, and we only use gloves when dealing with that stuff.
More information on the burning of waste oil is available in this EPA Report. Quite interesting
I spend a bit of time on my heater today and sparked it up for the first time. Wow what a beast. Took me a while to get the flow and airflow right but she was pumping out the heat and smokeless. I'm really impressed. I need to paint it and fit it into the hangar with the fireproofing, but it will be awesome. How do you guys light them?? I ended up using turps and a piece of rag, let a bit of oil in and lit the rag, threw it in and boom she was off. Do you guys run full fan speed or do you regulate it for a clean burn. I also added 1 liter of avgas to the oil to thin it as it was aircraft oil which is quite thick in viscosity. I'm thinking of adding the old 180litre hot water cylinder I have to heat water for the hangar. Would one of your copper coils work to heat it. I'd plumb it all properly and pump it to the sink in the hangar. Also how would I auto start the thing?? And would I benefit from the pump system verses just a gravity feed.
other secrets I should know?? Thanks for all your help. I'll get you a video
and a review for you website once I get it installed properly.
Hi Hamish, I put in the timer/pump system two weekends ago and it solved all the flow problems!
No more variable flow rates as the sun heats the oil tank, and good flow into the burner bowl all the time now - I used a timer and have found that a rate of "on for one second, off for two" is best
It works so well I can turn it on in the morning and leave it all day with no adjustment at all - brilliant!
Here's the setup:
Got the burner up to 330 degrees (temp on outside of door) and had the spa at 35 degrees from 10 degree water in around 8 hours - wife very happy!
Last weekend we had another hot spa, it's only the fourth since I brought the heater off you a year or so back, it's taken a long time to get the combination of fan, pump and shed together to make it work well.
Yesterday the noisy squirrel cage fan I have been using finally died so I installed your thick black pc fan - that thing pumps out a shitload of air, the burner was roaring and the door was glowing! The new fan ran for about 6 hours then stopped working - are yours still working ok? What warranty do you get with these?
I have 10m of 8mm cooper tube lying around so thought about winding it around the outside of the base of the chimney - or perhaps adding it inside alongside yours - there are currently 6 winds of copper inside.
Where would you put it.
Thanks Brendon. New Fan on it's way when back in stock.
Wrap the copper tubing around the flue.
The next email arrived today.
Hi Hamish, just figured out that my mate killed the fan putting 48v into it by accident when it was meant to be 12 volt, he was "helping" so forget the feedback re the failed unit it was 100% user error!
How much is a new one please?
I replied, I was amazed it lasted 6 hours on 48volt.
If you have any feedback good or bad mail us to let us know we would love to hear back from you.
We will put it up for all to see.