drip fed waste oil heating.com
WE SELL WASTE OIL HEATERS
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Building Your Own Heater.

This is how you build your own Fan Forced waste oil heater.

Start with an old unused gas cylinder, if you intend to heat a large area use a 45 kg gas cylinder. A 45kg cylinder for a house would be too big, look into an old steel forklift cylinder 18kg instead these are ideal fo homes spa etc. I built a 45 kg heater for our home some years back, and in the middle of winter our daughter would have her bedroom door wide open to outside, because it was too hot in the house.

OK one cylinder, open the valve up and let all the remaining gas out.

Open the valve and full with water until it flows out the valve. Empty it.

Cut the handle off the cylinder and keep for later.

The Cylinder handle been removed. Clean up any rough edges and put aside.

Grind off any welds that are left over from the handle. Find centre on the top of the cylinder and mark. Cut out a square 100mm x 100mm or 4"x4" hole.

We have found restricting the hole size to 100mm x 100mm square helps with cleaner burning rather than cutting a 150mm or 6" round hole.

Using a 150mm steel pipe, cut a ring 100mm-150mm long, centre and weld from inside the ring.

Flue housing complete.The flue will now sit either inside that ring or if your having a flue made then get them to make it to the outside measurement of the ring, especially if this heater is having it's life outside, as it will keep any water out.

 The door 330mm wide x 250mm high or to fit the size of your pot 200mm pot stainless steel mixing bowl works well as it gets red hot which is excellent for gasification process.
Cut the right side of the door first and fix the hinges this way the door stays in place, these can either be pot rivited or welded in place. If using pot rivits use stainless steel rivits only, aluminium rivits will melt.  Cut along the top of manufactures weld, for the bottom of the door, but only halfway through the thickness of the steel, because there is a steel bead inside the cylinder we need as a door slam. You may not beable to crack it open until the right & the top sides of the door are cut. Come back to the bottom cut, and when you think you're halfway through the thickness smack it with a hammer to crack the cut. Open the door using a screwdriver. Tidy up the cuts and fix a latch to your door.. Drill a 8mm hole in the centre of your door, so you can see the flame.
Countersink it with a 13mm drill bit.
 Place the handle you cut off earlier inside the cylinder as pot rest where the fire will be kept.
A 200mm s/s mixing bowl will sit inside the ring.

The pot i have made from some flue housing, and a piece of flat steel welded on the base.

I have also welded a couple of pipes to keep the pot on the stand.

You could use a stainless steel mixing bowl with a 50mm U cut on the top edge for the blower / burner tube to sit into, rather than the hole.

I have drilled a 50mm hole in the side of my pot to house the blower burner unit.

To get the hole correct, in the side of your cylinder, measure from the floor up to the top of the hole in your pot. Put that measurement on the side of your cylinder. Drill a 50mm hole or cut a 55mm x 55mm square. If using a bent nose burner / blower unit keep the burner end 80mm from the bottom of you pot.

 The blower/burner pipe will poke through this hole and once fitted bolt the blower burner unit onto the side of your cylinder.

 Blower burner entry.
Drill a 50mm hole. The bolt holes, don't drill until you receive your Blower/Burner unit from us.
Good time to clean down you cylinder with either a flap sanding disc which fits your angle grinder, or better still, take it into your sandblaster. Give it a paint with 600C heat proof spray paint.
If you light it with the existing paint on, do it outside as it will smoke like a buggar once it reaches 500C and it's not nice stuff so don't breathe it in. Sandblasting is easier, cleaner                                                                                      option and reasonably priced.
 Now you've made your heater well done.
The blower/burner units we build, we always have them in stock packaged ready to send, they work to a high standard, they have been designed to burn very clean as the airflow is correct, we send these world wide so go to the Home page and purchase your blower / burner unit, which will bolt onto the side of your cylinder, and complete your heater. The blower burner unit comes complete, ready to plug in connect the piping/tubing turn the oil on, and light it.
$245.00NZD or $177.50USD, that's a very cheap heater, that will give you free heating for years to come. Payments via paypal. Or 3 x $83.00NZD over a month. Plus freight
to America, Scotland, Canada or pretty well anywhere $76.00USD.

NZ Freight 30-50 dollars.No RD addresses please we can deliver to a Post Office near you for you to collect.

Fit a copper coil wetback inside it, and heat all the water you ever wanted all for free.
You will also need two lengths of 150mm flue x 1200mm and a cowling or lid, the cheapest                                                                                  place would be a building recycles and get stainless steel it will last forever.
                                                                              If using tin flues these heaters melt the galvanising coating and when it rains the flue turns                                                                                  to rust so Stainless may cost more but they will last.
                                                                              We will include instruction on how to light it, and operate it.
                                                                              Thanks Hamish.
Back from the sandblaster in grey colour but not painted.
We replaced the hinges and door latch to something heavier the will last the test of time. 
We have a few available but these 45 kg cylinders are like hens teeth to get a hold of.
They are available at $199.00NZD plus freight. Email us should you want one.

This is how it works.This one in the video above is a 18kg cylinder lying flat, you can have them sitting vertical or horizontal.

Upright is best if you are intending in putting a copper coil in it.

This waste oil heater in the video above, although installed  outside, heats a 2.5 metre radiator in our lounge to 70-80c which heats the house for free.

It's fitted with the new timer/pump, which makes it just works beautifully.

We would highly recommend that you purchase the timer/pump system to make your waste oil heater fully controllable and safe.

We have Wifi with this heater to control it on/off, so we don't have to go outside at night in the wet & cold, we can turn it off in bed via the phone App.

There is a little to outlay at first, like with any heater, but once you have this setup, that's it for years and years or until you let it rust away of burn it out, our heater has been going for ten years it live under a piece of tin to keep the weather off it but it doesn't look any different from the day we installed it to be honest. 

Pretty much totally free safe heating and that's got to be worth alot to most families.

All you do is light it, so start enjoying that free heating forever as alot of us already do.

Regards Hamish.

Any questions email us at dripfedwateoilheating@gmail.com

or should you require any parts please get in contact.